Food & Feeding Equipment

You’ve probably heard of Masstick. It’s the innovative fish food from EasyReefs that you can stick on any surface of your aquarium—to your glass or rocks, for example—so fish can naturally graze on it. Hobbyists choose Masstick because it’s all-natural balanced nutrition and finicky fish love it. The only issue is it requires preparation before use. Now all that’s changed with the release of Easy Masstick! It’s everything you love about the original Masstick but now in a ready-to-use formulation that requires zero preparation. Easy Masstick At-A-Glance The only food you can stick to glass, rocks, or coral skeletons so fish can naturally graze on it. A complete and balanced food for omnivores. You don’t have to feed other foods to supplement a diet of Easy Masstick. Great for finicky eaters like Angels and Butterflyfish. LPS corals and azooxanthellate corals love Easy Masstick! Inverts do, too! Everything in Easy Masstick is from the ocean. There are no ingredients from freshwater or on land. 100% all-natural ingredients. There is nothing artificial inside. There are zero preservatives or attractants. You can mix it with vitamins and medications. It can be an invaluable tool for the oral treatment of sick or debilitated fish How Does Easy Masstick Work? It’s easy! Just open up the jar, remove however much you’d like to feed, then knead it between your fingers. Next, stick it to your aquarium glass or rocks—wherever you like! Any surface will do. We actually recommend sticking it to several spots in your tank so that all your fish, even the less aggressive ones, can have access to the food. And that’s it! Sit back and watch your fish peck at it just like they would in nature. It’s a real treat to see your fish feeding just like they do in the ocean. Another plus is that Easy Masstick stays “stuck” for hours. Fish can come and go as they please to eat as much, or as little, as they desire. This ad libitum approach to feeding is unique to the Masstick line and allows the food to be rationed for hours rather than gobbled up in a few seconds. All-Natural Ingredients From the Sea Everything in Easy Masstick is of marine origin. There aren’t any artificial ingredients, preservatives, or attractants. Nothing has been synthesized in a laboratory. With Easy Masstick, you’re getting a truly diverse blend of natural and balanced nutrition that was created specifically for omnivorous fish and marine invertebrates to thrive. Easy Masstick Ingredients and Nutritional Benefits: Easy Masstick consists mainly of shrimp (Palaemonetes varians) that are harvested from the Veta La Palma aquaculture facility in southern Spain. They are immediately freeze-dried to maintain the nutritional value. Since Easy Masstick is mainly comprised of freeze-dried zooplankton and does not contain any fish skeletons, it is very low in phosphate relative to its protein content. Freeze-dried microalgae and macroalgae are added to the Easy Masstick food blend to satisfy the nutritional needs of a wider variety of marine fish. Easy Masstick provides an essential source of proteins, lipids rich in fatty acids (EPA, ARA, and DHA), vitamins, and carbohydrates. All are from natural sources of marine origin. Easy Masstick does not contain animal or vegetable compounds from land origin. It does not contain any ingredients that originated in freshwater. There are zero artificial preservatives. You Can Mix it With Other Foods, Vitamins, and Medications One of the characteristics hobbyists loved about the original Masstick was that it could be mixed with other products. The new Easy Masstick formula is no different! You can blend it with mollusks, crustaceans, fish eggs, artemia, mysids, copepods, and rotifers. In addition to mixing with other foods, you can fortify the nutritional value of Easy Masstick by adding liquid vitamin supplements. Need to treat a sick fish? Add the prescribed dosage of oral medication to Easy Masstick to ensure it is consumed and digested properly by the fish you need to treat. Masstick is Well-Known to Satisfy Finicky Eaters Another reason hobbyists love the original Masstick is that picky eaters are drawn to it. Thousands of hobbyists around the world rely on it to feed fish that are known to be fussy eaters. Thankfully, the new Easy Masstick has that same great quality! Your Angel Fish, Butterfly Fish, Tangs, Wrasses, and other omnivores will devour Easy Masstick. You can stick Easy Masstick wherever your fish are so they are guaranteed to see it, making it one of the most user-friendly foods around. Another cool benefit is that, as your more aggressive fish feed, smaller bits fall away to where other residents of the reef can consume it. How to Feed Easy Masstick to Your Fish Take a portion of Easy Masstick out of the jar and stick it on a rock, a branched coral skeleton, or the aquarium glass (preferably in the lower third), or elsewhere depending on the feeding habits of the fish in the tank. Nutrition and Ingredient Breakdown Ingredients:Palaemonetes variansMicroalgaeMacroalgaeMineral SaltGlycerol Nutritional Profile:Protein: 29.85%Fat: 3.3%Fiber: 2.1%Ash: 15.47%Moisture: 29.35% Easy Masstick Frequently Asked Questions Should I vary my fish’s diet with other products?It is not necessary. The natural origin and freeze-drying of the ingredients in Easy Masstick guarantee an optimal nutritional profile for marine animals. Freeze-drying preserves the vitamins, nutrients and essential bioactive compounds that are present in live food. How much Easy Masstick should I give my fish daily?The amount varies depending on species, size, age, behavior, etc. A proper amount would be approximately 1-2% of the animal’s weight with respect to its size and age. We generally recommend placing Easy Masstick in several areas of the aquarium and observe if it is consumed in the following 30 minutes. You can increase or decrease the amount depending on the amount consumed. Can Easy Masstick be used to feed corals?Yes, for both LPS corals and azooxanthellate corals. You can provide small portions as food for corals like Cinaryna, Caulastrea, Tubastrea, Dendrophylia, etc., or you can mix it with aquarium water to create a “soup” and spread it on azooxanthellate corals with small polyps like Menella, Guaiagorgia, Minabea, etc.

EHEIM Everyday Fish Feeder is a compact fish feeder with actively aerated feeding chamber. This unit inclues a clamp for fixing to open top aquariums or terrariums. Easy to understand programming, double dosage of food is programmable. The Everyday Feeder has an adjustable slider which allows you to control the portions. Give your fish snacks with a touch of a button. Works with most types of food: granulate, sticks, pellets, or flakes Warning system warns you when low battery power. Splash proof keys. Batteries included. Capacity of 3.3 oz Drum will not stop with feed slot in the downward position

Gourmet Defroster Pro - Feeding, Well Thawed Out.  Pro Improved Features: Larger Encapsulated Magnet, Enhanced Resin & Safety Magnet Pad Do you really have 5 minutes to "defrost" frozen fish food in a cup? We certainly don't. The Gourmet Defroster Pro is the fast, effective and simple way of feeding your fish frozen food. Our Patented Gourmet Defroster Pro has taken all the hassle and frustration out of frozen food feeding and gives you numerous features that you'll love! Just drop a cube and go, and let this 3-in-1, magnet-mounted defroster thaw, separate, and dispense frozen food all by itself! Its open/close pivoting design gives you an adjustable release setting that allows for portion control and the ability to regulate the amount of food that is released into your tank. This keeps more food in their mouths, and less in your filter. With the Gourmet Defroster Pro's easy disassembly, it also doubles as a feeding ring for freeze-dried and larger floating frozen food. When combined with the Gourmet Grinder you can feed flake and pellet food adding variety and a balance of healthy nutrients! The Defroster's ring corrals the food in one place so the food doesn't drift all around your tank, which keeps your fish fed and your water crystal clear. FEATURES: For Fresh and Saltwater FishCan be used for Frozen, Pellet, Flake or Freeze Dried Food.Adjustable Release SettingsReduces Waste and Maintains Water QualityMagnetic MountedFeeding Ring ConversionCorals Food in a Contained AreaPatent No. US 10,405,525 B2

Reef-Roids is a blend of naturally occurring marine planktons, which contains a species of zooplankton that is unique to our product. It is formulated to minimize water degradation and is ideal for Goniapora, Zoanthids, Mushrooms, and all other filter feeding corals. With continued use, your corals will never experience faster growth and coloration! Ingredients: Marine Planktons Guaranteed AnalysisCrude Protein 60%Crude Fat 20%Crude Fiber 8%Moisture 6%Ash 6% Directions: For every 100g of tank volume, mix one teaspoon of Reef-Roids with some water from your tank. For optimum results, use a syringe to target feed this mixture while tank circulation is off. Otherwise, disperse mixture directly into tank.

Tigger-Pods are attractive large red copepods that swim upwards with a stimulating, jerky swimming motion which is attractive to both fish and people. Finicky fish love them! Tigger-Pods are perfect for culturing and restocking reeftanks & refugiums, as well as an excellent feed for fish, including mandarins and pipefish. They breed rapidly producing hundreds of eggs per female. Tigger-Pods are great for... Propagation Increasing Bio-Diversity Restocking of Reef Refugiums Care and Feeding Copepods are relatively easy to care for and maintain. They feed primarily on microalgae and can be fed our phytoplankton-based product blends such as Phyto-Feast. Copepods can live in your main tank, your refugium, or in a separate dedicated system. In your main tank, they will be eaten and depleted by your fish and corals. In your refugium they will thrive since there are no predators. Pods from your refugium can be periodically harvest and fed to your main tank. Copepods like to remain inconspicuous, so they will prefer an environment with nooks and crannies. In your main tank they will hide in your live rock and gravel. In your refugium they will hide in your macroalgae and other plants. Directions for Feeding while in the 6 oz bottle If you are going to keep them in the bottles for an extended period, remove the lid to increase oxygen in the water and put them in a refrigerator between 34 and 40 F. At this temperature their metabolism will slow, and they require very little oxygen or food. Alternatively, store the bottle in a cool place with the lid removed and feed them 1 drop of Phyto-Feast every other day. This method is for short-term because of waste build-up in the bottle. Directions for Feeding in a refugium Add 1 TSP (5mls) of Phyto-Feast per 25 gallons of refugium water. For example: a 100 gallon refugium will receive 4 TSP (20mls). The uneaten algae will make its way up to the display where it will be available to zooplankton and other filter-feeders. Some customer feed this way every day, some feed more infrequently. What you will need for Culturing in a Stand Alone Container We recommend at least 2 culture vessels in case one has issues. The vessels can be a 5 or 10 gallon aquarium, Tupperware container, etc. that holds water. Deep containers or carboys are not suggested.Culture water. You will need some freshly mixed clean saltwater. We use BTAC salt in our systems. Do not use water from an existing aquarium or culture as this will contaminate your attempt to start a new culture of copepods. A specific gravity of 1.020 to 1.025 for this species of copepod is suggestedSmall air pump, air stone, and airline tubing. You can also use rigid airline without an air stone. Very light aeration is adequate.No heater is needed. This species is very hardy. Try to avoid culture temperature exceeding 85F. Optimal temperature range is 60F to 85F.We recommend a small, direct light source like a simple dome, shop lamp - 12 hours on: 12 hours off.A food source, such as Phyto-Feast phytoplankton, is recommended.We don't use substrate in our cultures, but some people will have crushed gravel or sand and reef rock in their systems. We recommend that all substrate added is sterile and void of life so that you don't get any competing organisms in the culture.Directions for Culturing in a Stand Alone ContainerFill your container half to two-thirds with clean saltwater. Add the air source to the culture and run it very low (2-3 bubbles per second is ideal). Make sure you use a drip loop and check valve to keep water from getting into your pump and electrical outlet. Add a small amount of Phyto-Feast (1-2mls) to some culture water and stir until homogenized. Then gently pour the diluted algae in so that you can lightly color the culture tank. Do not add too much, or the water will foul. After you've acclimated your copepods to temperature, pour them in and you are all set! Over the next few weeks, your copepods will reproduce. It may seem at first that they aren't reproducing as fast as you would like, but once they get to a certain population level you will see an "explosion" of copepods in your culture vessel. On a daily or every other day basis, feed small amounts of Phyto-Feast necessary to keep the water lightly tinted, and monitor water quality. Crashes from overfeeding that leads to high ammonia and nitrite are possible, water changes can help if the water quality declines too much. Water changes can be performed when harvesting. See the next section for details. To harvest your copepods, a plankton collector/strainer of some sort is very helpful. A 90 microns sieve will catch all sizes, while 300 will help to separate out the juveniles and adults from the larval stages. You can siphon your copepods through the collector, insuring that when you feed them to your aquarium you are only adding copepods, not culture water. Discard the culture water and add new, clean saltwater to the culture to bring it back to the original level. You are essentially doing a water change when you siphon out the copepods. Make sure you do not dip your strainer in the copepod culture, and then in your aquarium, and then back in your culture vessel without cleaning it first. Likewise, keep siphon tubing and other equipment you use on your culture separate from equipment you use in your aquariums or larval tanks to avoid contamination. While you can always buy another batch of Tigger-Pods should your culture crash, you can avoid that frustration by not sharing equipment between different systems. You can also scoop the Tigger-Pods with a brine shrimp net but keep in mind that you will need to do a water change on the system as waste accumulates. Scooping can also stir up waste from the bottom, so do it carefully. You will see "mulm" accumulate on the bottom of the culture after a week or so. The mulm consists of bacteria, organic waste, copepod molts and the copepod nauplii (babies). The nauplii prefer to be on the bottom of the tank feeding on algae and organic waste, so when siphoning this out, try to screen it first and put them back in the culture. It's ok to return some of the mulm to the tank. It's also a good idea to add a small amount of mulm to a new culture since there is bacteria in it that will help rapidly cycle. Add RO/DI water to the culture as evaporation occurs. It's a good idea to make a mark on the culture with tape or a sharpie to keep track of the original water level. Receiving your Tigger-Pods Tigger-Pods are wonderful little creatures, full of energy, fun to watch, and great food for your reef tank. When you receive your shipment, there are some steps you can take that will help ensure their health and survival. Upon arrival, you may notice the Tigger-Pods aren't very active. This is normal when cold shipped or cold stored. As the bottles warm up, the Tigger-Pods will become more active. It is not uncommon to have a few of the oldest copepods to die from old age. We pack the bottle with life stages above 300 microns, so the bottle will be full of juveniles and egg-bearing females. On average, we add at least 10% more in every bottle to account for any DOA. Open bottle cap and remove the inside liner, if there is one. Let the bottle stand at room temp for 2 hours to allow the temperature to rise. The Tigger-Pods can be poured directly into your refugium and/or main tank. We recommend that you add copepods after lights out. Turn off all pumps, add the copepods and wait 30 minutes before returning your system to normal function. Since some of the copepods will cling to the side of the bottle after pouring, make sure to rinse the remainders out with clean saltwater so that you get every last animal. Tigger-Pods feed on microalgae and we recommend feeding them with Phyto-Feast. Phyto-Feast can be dosed directly into both your refugium and main tank. The recommended feeding rate is 1 TSP per 100 gallons for a display tank without refugium or 1 TSP per 25 gallons when dosing to the refugium. This can be done each day, depending on the bio-density of your reef tank. Add the dose near a powerhead or wavemaker to disperse the concentrate when adding to the display. When adding the dose to the refugium, mix it with some tank water to homogenize and then pour it in. Longer Term Storage Tigger-Pods can be stored in a refrigerator (33-42°F / 1-5°C) to slow down their metabolic processes, which will increase store shelf life.